Some have asked, “how is Africa?”

I’m not sure how the continent as a whole is holding up, but Rwanda:

- Has lots of live chickens being carried to the market by their feet,
- cars have emission standards that would make al gore cry
- has houses where water comes from the tap and houses were water comes from a man with plastic jugs tied precariously to the back of his bicycle
- People smell like children and babies and wood burning stoves and life
- Some people smell like perfume
- I smell like baby powder
- You can tell who has done laundry by the rawness of their knuckles
- Soda is better. I don’t care what you think-Coke and Fanta are the best in Africa
- Sometimes wakes me up with the call to prayer, sometimes wakes me up with dogs barking
- Has the best mangoes I have ever tasted
- Is making me think. A lot.
- Full of friends, some from Rwanda, some from elsewhere
- And mostly covered in dust, from feet to head to backpack and especially, most surprisingly, to underwear. Red dust everywhere.

When it is dusty, the rain is coming.

In the beginning...

One week in Africa

I have started this first blog entry many times, and each time it has felt inadequate. Please be patient with me while I improve my storytelling capabilities.

My African morning commute:
Walk down the road to the outdoor market
As the smell of yesterday's old fruit fills the air, watch many many people rush buses attempting to get a seat. (as my Scottish friend Ally says, no one has taught Africans the fine art of queuing).
There is an intrinsic rhythm to this that I certainly cannot find, so I stand awkwardly.

Eventually realize that there is no way I am going to be able to get on a bus, So I take a moto. (vespa like scooter that seats two).
Rough directions, broken English and French later, I have a ten minute, mostly pleasant slightly life threatening ride to the office.
A harrowing walk down a steep red mud road.

Accidentally go to the wrong gate. I am very confused when the guard doesn’t let me, and he patiently walks me to another gate, one where he has seen other mzungus enter. Of course it is the correct one.

And that begins the day.

things I have already done that I did not think I would do:
eat raw veggies (oops)
ride a moto (not oops, a great and cheap way to get around)
sleep without a mosquito net (oops)

What I brought that I already know I will never use:
My new tinkerbell travel alarm clock- broken!

What I wish I had brought:
Books. these are traded among the ex-pat community like gold.

What I never imagined I would ever experience:
Avocados the size of watermelons
Aerobics to a combination of African music and techno 80s american pop. I think we owe the world a collective apology for consistently exporting our bad taste in music.


I like this moving to places.